michelangelo chronograph 563 42

In many areas of luxury the end consumer is often met with the finished product with little idea of how that product was actually developed the way it was, nor why. Here A. Lange & Sohne provides a fascinating insight into how it approached three technical areas of watch*** and reveal how each of those paths evolved.The first of Lange's innovations for 2010 is harder gold (top). Chemically speaking, this novel "honey-coloured" gold is an 18-carat gold alloy which means it consists of 75 percent pure gold. Its colour lies midway between pink and white gold and is attribut-able to its copper and zinc content.The combination of a special thermal treatment with a slight admixture of man-ganese is responsible for its extraordi-nary hardness which registers between 300-320 HV on the Vickers scale. To put that in perspective, yellow gold's value lies between 135-150 HV meaning honey-coloured gold is more than twice as hard. The benefits to the watchmaker and the wearer are obvious, offering far improved scratch resistance and durability.Meanwhile another of Lange's discoveries for 2010 centres round its Zeitwerk timepiece (above) which boasts numerals that are obscured behind the dial for most of the day. To ensure the wearer can read the time in the dead of night, the numerals’ ability to absorb light had to be addressed.Lange's solution was to create a sapphire-crystal dial with a semi-transparent but UV-permeable coating. The light in the ultra-violet (UV) range from 250 to 430 nanometres is allowed to pass unhindered so the Superluminova numerals can be charged up with photonic energy even when obscured behind the dial. This allows them to glow for several hours at night despite not seeing sunlight in the traditional sense for much of the day.The final innovation likewise involves luminosity but is related to lunar discs rather than numerals. Lange's 1815 Moonphase is accurate to such a degree that it takes over a thousand years for the display to be off by one day relative to the moon's position. Maintaining this excellence, Lange wanted to develop a coating for the stars that would genuinely emulate the appearance of the night sky.The brand employed a group of scientists who pioneered a new process in the watch*** industry in which they apply extremely hard carbon films to the solid-gold lunar discs through physical vapour deposition �C known as PVD. This adjustment of the su***ce not only delivers the desired col-our hue but also very high wear resistance. The lunar discs are crisp and brilliant.

[ via A. Lange & Sohne ]A. Lange & Sohne will be introducing the RICHARD LANGE Pour le M��rite at SIHH 2009 (January 19th-23rd). The new RICHARD LANGE timepiece features a complicated fus��e-and-chain transmission. The fus��e makes the watch more accurate, much like a tourbillon. And like a tourbillon, it has great chronometric value among collectors. (Read full press release below.) Precise, Preciser, RICHARD LANGE "Pour le M��rite" The third Lange wristwatch with a fus��e-and-chain transmission continues the tradition of observation watches that are fully focused on precise time measurement. This horological rarity with its three-part enamel dial has famous historic forebears. The pocket chronometer - the timepiece of the scientific elite - has always been a coveted rarity. It dates back to around 1880 at A. Lange & Sohne, when Richard Lange, the company founder's oldest son and technical director of the family business, was already inspiring the craft of precision watch***. Overall, only about 30 of these unusual timepieces were ever made. Now, the chronometer with a fus��e-and-chain transmission is experiencing a renaissance, as an exclusive timekeeping instrument for the wrist dedicated to mechanical precision - reduced to this sole purpose, without any further complications. Its name: RICHARD LANGE "Pour le M��rite". Following the TOURBILLON in the first collection and the TOURBOGRAPH presented in 2005, this RICHARD LANGE model also bears the distinction "Pour le M��rite". At Lange, it is reserved for exceptional complications such as the fus��e-and-chain transmission. It refers to the order of merit initiated in 1842 by the eminent explorer Alexander von Humboldt and which is still awarded to great scientists and artists. But this distinction could also be understood as a commendation for the forefathers of Saxony's precision watch*** industry. One of them is Richard Lange who enriched watch*** with numerous inventions, most notably the steel-nickel alloy for balance springs that he patented in 1930. The alloy contains beryllium, *** hairsprings thermally stable and resistant to magnetic fields. It is still widely used today for the same purpose. The RICHARD LANGE "Pour le M��rite" is the second member of a watch family dedicated explicitly to greater precision in time measurement. The first watch with the same name, a large and extraordinary three-hand timepiece devoted to the tradition of scientific observation watches, was a role model of accuracy and lucid design. The new model also has a case in platinum or pink gold with a diameter of 40.5 millimetres, perceptibly enhancing legibility. Puristically organised, the radiant white three-part enamel dial features narrow black Roman numerals for the hours and small red Arabic numerals for 15, 30, 45, and 60 minutes. Thirty elaborate processes are needed to produce each of the three subsidiary dials. The result is an immaculate enamel face that sets a brightly contrasted stage for the classic blued-steel hands. An aperture in the dial that could have shown the fus��e-and-chain mechanism from the front was deliberately omitted so that nothing would distract the owner from telling the exact time at a glance. More Effective Than a Tourbillon Thus, the second RICHARD LANGE also focuses the attention of its owner on the objective of all horological ambitions: the greatest possible degree of precision. It relies on an ingenious construction, a drive based on the chain-and-fus��e principle used as early as the 15th century among others by Leonardo da Vinci. In his standard reference book "Watchmakers and Clockmakers of the World", G.H. Baillie characterised it as follows: "Perhaps no problem in mechanics has ever been solved so simply and so perfectly". However, it takes the ultimate in know-how and dexterity to craft this intricate mechanism in a size that can be accommodated by a wristwatch, so understandably, it is much rarer today than the tourbillon. At the same time, it is much more effective in a wristwatch because it overcomes the greatest disadvantage of the winding train - the unavoidable loss of torque - by intelligently harnessing the principle of levers. The fus��e-and-chain transmission compensates for the declining spring force, keeping the effective torque constant across the entire power-reserve period. For this purpose, the drive function, usually handled by the mainspring barrel alone, is taken over by two components: the mainspring barrel and the adjacent tapered fus��e. The two components are connected by a dainty chain which in the case of the RICHARD LANGE "Pour le M��rite" consists of 636 individual parts. At one end, it is attached to the broad lower end of the fus��e and at the other to the exterior of the spring barrel. A slot is milled into the conical su***ce of the fus��e that leads to the narrowest point, much like a spiral path that leads to the summit of a mountain. When the watch is being wound, the chain unreels from the outer wall of the barrel and wraps around the fus��e until - if we stick with our metaphor - it arrives at the summit of the mountain. In this state, the radius of the fus��e, i.e. the magnitude of its leverage, is small but the torque delivered by the mainspring is large. As the mainspring gradually unwinds, its power diminishes. But as the chain unreels from the fus��e and back onto the barrel, the length of its lever- the effective radius of the fus��e - increases by the exact same measure as the spring's torque decreases. The result is constant torque at the fus��e's arbor and therefore constant amplitude of the balance. A Horological Opus This complex system can only function flawlessly if three additional precautions are taken. The first one is a system that blocks the winding process just before the mainspring is fully wound and thus prevents the chain from tearing. In this mechanism, the vertical motion of the chain is used to actuate an intricate system of levers that block the ratchet wheel at the right moment. The second precaution is a mechanism that stops the movement before the mainspring is fully relaxed. This function is assumed by a modified power-reserve wheel that controls a stop lever. After exactly 36 hours, the lever drops into a recess in the wheel. Assisted by a spring, the longer arm of the lever moves into the engagement radius of a specially shaped finger seated on the fourth wheel arbor. The arbor is stopped when the two elements make contact. The seconds hand stays at the 12 o'clock position. Finally, the fus��e-and-chain transmission needs a construction to ensure that the transmission does not stop while the watch is being wound. A complex planetary gearing inside the fus��e preserves the power flow from the fus��e to the movement during the winding phase. The most interesting details such as the chain, the blocking mechanism, and the ratchet wheel over the fus��e that incorporates the planetary gearing are visible through apertures in the lavishly decorated three-quarter plate. A further detail illustrates the degree to which the calibre designers pursued their quest for precision: to find the optimised match of the characteristics of the mainspring and of the fus��e, the 36-hour working range of the mainspring can be adjusted in the direction of higher or lower torque. This can be done by a service watchmaker with a proprietary Lange tool that engages with a pretensioning ratchet on the mainspring barrel. The setting is locked with a pawl. Located above the three-quarter plate, this mechanism is easily accessible. The exclusive calibre L044.1 movement is powered by an indexless escapement that beats with 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour and has a power reserve of 36 hours when fully wound. It incorporates a hairspring made in-house, precisely adapted to the oscillation system and the parameters of the movement. In turn, the moment of inertia of the large balance wheel with its 18 inertia and 4 poising screws, all made of solid gold, corresponds exactly to the torque delivered by the fus��e. All components of the complex manually wound movement are crafted to the highest Lange quality standards and lavishly decorated. In addition to the balance cock, the separate escape-wheel and fourth-wheel cock are engraved by hand as well. Lange's master watchmakers also apply lavish decorations on parts of the movement that are not visible. Indeed, the RICHARD LANGE "Pour le M��rite" is not only a technically sophisticated precision timekeeping instrument, it is also a stunningly exquisite horological work of art.